CAN U DIG IT ... Yes you can!
Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)
Planting asparagus is no more difficult than planting potatoes.
But, because asparagus is a hardy perennial, you only have to plant
it once, to reap an annual harvest. Once mature, asparagus will
continue to greet each spring with it's tender crisp spears, earlier than
almost any other garden vegetables. If you're lucky it will continue
this ritual for as long as 20 years.With a minimum of requirements
other than watering and fertilizing; asparagus is literally the green
investment with the health return.
As a member of the Lilly family, which also includes leeks, garlic
and onions, asparagus has a broad range of soil, moisture and
weather conditions under which it can grow. All plants require a
minimum number of growing days and all areas are assigned a zone
number to indicate the length of an area's growing season. The lower
the number the shorter the growing season. Kamloops actually varies
from a zone 4 at the higher altitudes of Knutsford and Aberdeen
where the weather is cooler and the growing season is relatively
short, to a zone 6 at the valley floor (North Shore Westsyde, Raleigh
etc) where the weather conditions are the mildest and the growing
season can be as much as 2 or 3 weeks longer. But, since asparagus
is capable of growing in zones 3-9 even our hilltop neighbours need
not despair.
If grown from seed, asparagus will need 4 - 5 full years before
any spears can be harvested. But I grew mine from a clump of roots,
called a crown. This meant I could harvest in the 3rd year after
planting. Harvest lightly the first time so that the remaining
unharvested shoots can return their energy to the plant and ensure
healthier harvests in following years.
April in this region is an excellent time to plant asparagus
crowns. generally 3-4 weeks before last frost is an ideal time.Crowns
prefer a slightly sandy soil with good drainage and lots of organic
matter. Asparagus plants do not compete well with other weeds so
plant in a cleared spot of an established garden or remove all
perennial weeds and grass before planting in a new site. A good spot
would be a sunny location where its tall summer growth will not leave
another plant in its shade. It is not a good idea to plant asparagus in
a spot where strawberries have grown previously, as strawberries can
carry a rust disease that asparagus may be susceptible to. If you are
a companion planter, tomatoes are an asparagus plants best friend.
Tomatoe plants have been known to repel asparagus beetle and in
return asparagus plants produce a chemical that repels nematodes, a
common problem affecting the roots of tomato plants.
After planting, lay down a heavy mulch of newspaper, compost,
manure and then straw to discourage an invasion of weeds into the
planted area. The mulch should be replenished each year and will
serve two purposes; discouraging weeds and fertilizing the plants.
Each plant will eventually spread a few feet in width and grow to a
height of 5 to 8 ft. Matures plants will produce about 1 ½ lbs of
spears per season, so plan accordingly when determining how many
crowns to plant.
PLANTING ASPARAGUS
* Dig a trench about a 12" deep and 1½ feet wide.
* Work some well rotted manure and compost into the loose soil
* Form a mound of soil down the centre of the trench
* Lay crowns on the mound spreading out the roots like octopus tentacles
* Cover up with about 3 inches of loose soil so that crowns lay 4-6 inches
below the surface. As the plant grows continue to fill in the trench with
enriched soil until it is almost even
with surface of the ground.
The Harvest
Keep the plants watered and weed free. By the third year you can harvest
6”spears for about 4 weeks. Cut spears slightly below the surface. By the
fourth year you should be able to harvest 8” spears for 6 – 8 weeks or until
spears
no longer thicken. Let plant grow throughout the summer. Do not cut back
plants until the fronds have turned brown in fall. This ensures that the foliage
directs nutrients into the roots to ensure a productive crop the following
spring.
New gardeners are confused by it and long time gardeners value
it like gold. Besides water, soil is this planet’s greatest resource,
but it is created so slowly that it cannot be considered renewable.
There is no doubt about it, healthy plants are created from the
ground up. I suppose that reveals my opinion of those new
fangled hanging tomato plants. But before I go any further, I have
to make a confession.
In the past, I transformed a heavy, clay plot and a strip of near
gravel into productive gardens. I have experimented with and
used old-school techniques, raised beds, containers, cold frames,
green houses and the sides of buildings and fences. I have
attempted to grow veggies in partial shade and incessant rain.
These days, I grow half a dozen herbs and 20 kinds of vegetables,
sometimes comparing several varieties of each. I have been
challenged and greatly rewarded, but in 30 years of gardening, I
have never, ever had my soil tested.
I don’t know why. I was trained years ago as a horticulturalist,
have a basic understanding of soil science and know the
relevance of determining soil ph. It may have something to do with
my eternal optimism, or my stubborn defiance, I don’t know which.
Maybe, I just never wanted to be discouraged by poor scientific
results before getting started. The ph level indicates whether the
soil is acid, alkaline or neutral. Most plants prefer a neutral to
slightly acidic soil. It is common for much of the soil in BC to be a
little too acidic. High acidity will lock up nutrients and prevent
plants from utilizing them. What I do know is this, regardless of
what kind of soil you start with, all soil can be conditioned and the
fertility can be increased with simple and inexpensive natural
methods. It certainly doesn’t need to be perfect before you can
begin growing your own.
Great soil is a balance between sand, clay, organic matter and
nutrients. Each of these components contribute a different quality
that when mixed together are capable of creating a healthy
foundation and natural growing medium for your plants.
Vegetables prefer soil that will retain enough moisture to keep
their roots moist, but not so wet that they will be sitting in water.
Clay particles are fine so they have a tendency to retain moisture
and drain slowly. Sand particles, which are larger, create space to
hold oxygen (which is good) and permit drainage, but may drain
too quickly leaving roots dry. Squeeze a handful of damp soil in
your hand. Too much clay will produce a solid, dense clump and
form a ribbon when rubbed between your fingers. Too much sand
will crumble too easily. The idea is to eventually get to the loosely
packed, ball stage. But both can be greatly improved with the
addition of organic matter.
Organic matter is a natural fertilizer and soil conditioner that
results from animal waste or dead plant material. It provides
varying degrees of nutrients, increases the capacity of soil to
retain water, and supports the bacteria that helps release nutrients
for plant uptake. It generally comes in the form of manure,
compost and peat moss.
The diets of different animals produce different kinds of manure
each having varying percentages of nitrogen or other nutrients
than the others. I have heard that rabbit and bat guano are the
bee’s knees of the natural fertilizer world. But the important thing
to remember is that all manure should be well-rotted before being
used directly on the garden. Letting manure compost for 6-12
months will allow the intensity of the nitrogen to dissipate and
eliminate any unpleasant smell. As a general rule you should aim
to create soil that is one-third organic matter.
Composting is one of the best things you can do for your
environment and your garden. If I had enough of it I would
probably need very little of anything else. Remember that
everything you put into the compost pile will be contributing
different nutrients to your garden soil, so be creative (see the
compost list to get you started). Nutrients feed plants and keep
them healthy which is the best defence against “the dark arts”, I
mean disease. Fresh green material (grass clippings, weeds) or
any of the high nitrogen components will help get the pile cooking
to break it down. Remember to keep it moist, but not wet, turn it
occasionally to aerate and distribute microorganisms, and break
up material into smaller pieces to speed up results.
The three main nutrients needed by plants are nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizer products always list the
percentage of these three nutrients in this order, by their symbols
N-P-K. In simplest terms higher levels of nitrogen are best for leaf
crops like lettuce, spinach, cabbage and herbs. Higher
phosphorus levels are best for fruiting crops like squash,
tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and eggplant. Higher levels of
potassium are needed for root crops like potatoes, beets, carrots,
turnips and for disease resistance. All three of these nutrients can
be obtained from natural sources. Manure, blood meal and fish
fertilizer are excellent sources of nitrogen. Bone meal can provide
phosphorus. And potassium, otherwise known as potash can be
obtained from wood ashes, so ask your bonfire or fireplace friends
to save you a bucket of ashes to sprinkle into your garden. Not
only will ashes add potassium, it reduces soil ph and frees up
calcium
So, there you have it. Dig up the dirt . . . add the amendments . . .
get rid of some of them rocks, and get planting!
Getting to root of gardening
Thinking Inside the Box
Whatever new endeavour that you decide to undertake, be it a
hobby, business, or physical activity there will always be start-up
costs. Starting a garden is no different. The growing medium is of
utmost importance. I don't think I need to explain why. If you are
lucky enough to have enriched soil, your costs will be minimal. But, if
you decide to build a box (raised bed) then be prepared to make an
investment in at least some of your supplies.
This was the case when we decided to expand our growing space,
onto a section of our lawn with a 12’ by 20’ raised bed that we will
eventually turn into a greenhouse to extend the growing season.
First, we marked the area to be cleared and rented a sod remover.
Twenty minutes, and $35.00 for a two hour rental was all it took to
remove what would have taken 10-15 hours using a shovel. The
savings on ibuprofen, ice pack therapy, and general unhappiness for
every one involved surely offsets the cost. The wooden frame made
from 2x10 untreated lumber was close to $50. I also chose to drape
the inside of the wood with 6ml poly to prevent grass from creeping
in around the edge and to help the lumber stay dryer. Some folks
say yes to this step and some say nay. It’s up to you.
Next, determine the amount of soil that you will need to fill the box.
Length in inches, times width in inches, x height in inches divided by
46,656 will equal the number of yards that you will need. We
ordered 12 yards of prepared soil at $30 per yard, which set us back
nearly $400 including tax. Next we purchased 4 bags of manure at
$7 per bag. All totalled the bill was about $500.
So, if a senior on your street offers you a plot of land that he or
she cannot manage any longer I urge you to don your gloves, step
up to the shovel and dig in. On the other hand, if you have a garden
plot that you no longer care to maintain, consider sharing the land
with someone who would appreciate putting it to good use. The
experience will reap the rewards of education, empowerment,
building community and most of all good clean food.
The Herbal Garden
Herbs have earned their rightful place, not only in gardens, but in the
kitchens, medicine cabinets, and even the bedrooms of the world’s most
modern cities to its most isolated communities. In the past, humans
have depended on herbs to: flavor foods and help preserve them; mask
unpleasant odours; and to colour the fabrics of their clothes.
Believed to contain magical powers, herbs have been used to
neutralize the "evil eye" and to conjure up both love potions and deadly
spells. Although, ancient peoples knew nothing of the chemistry and
pharmacology of herbs, they were well aware of their medicinal
properties. Herbs of all kinds were used to heal wounds, and to create
the remedies that could induce sleep and either hypnotize, energize or
tranquilize the mind. As such, herbs have played an essential role in
every culture from ancient times to modern.
Ancient Greeks crowned their heroes with laurel (more commonly
known as bay leaves). Their athletes used bruised mint leaves to
cleanse and scent their skin. Dill was used by the Romans to purify the
air of their banquet hall. Rosemary, well known as a symbol of
remembrance and love, was traditionally used in both the bouquets of
brides, and at funerals where mourners tossed it into the grave to
symbolize that the life of the departed would not be forgotten.
Today’s urban gardeners grow herbs for their beauty, fragrance and
culinary use. When it comes to taste, fresh herbs provide superior
flavour over dried. But if you produce a bounty you can certainly freeze
or dry what remains.
Typically, herbs take up little room making them an excellent plant
for containers, window boxes and small empty spaces. Some of them
are also hardy perennials, so no need to replant. Their foliage is
colourful and diverse. Careful planning and selection will ensure than
you have a tapestry of gray, green, yellow and purple. If you
want more colour consider adding some edible flowers.
They will add an impressive touch to salads, drinks and
desserts (see “Chef’s Corner” for some suggestions). They
require very little care, are relatively disease and pest free,
and can thrive in the long hot summers of the Thompson
Okanagan Region. If you are thinking about becoming a
gardener, herbs are definitely an excellent place to start.
The Culinary Herb Garden
Unless you have an established garden, plan your culinary
herb garden as close to the kitchen as possible, or
interplant them amongst the flowers that you weed and
water by hand. This way you will constantly be reminded of
their presence and will not forget to use them. There is
nothing worse that barbequing a great trout or making an
egg sandwich and then remembering the fresh sprig of
rosemary, dill or chives that would have turned the ordinary
into the extraordinary.
Some of the most versatile and easy to grow herbs
include:
Chives
Dill (gets very tall)
Basil (great for tomato and eggplant dishes, fresh pesto,
pasta salads, eggs)
Oregano
Cilantro (the seeds of which are coriander)
Sage
Mint (can take over), parsley and thyme.
And don’t forget rosemary!
Tips for Designing and Planting an Herb Garden
* Plan to grow 80% familiar and 20% “new to you” herbs to
expand your taste and provide opportunities to experiment.
* Herbs don’t like wet feet. If your soil and containers don’t drain
properly, add sand.
* Plant where your herbs will receive at least six hours of sunlight
per day.
* Mint can rapidly take over a small space, so confine it in a
container if you don’t want it to spread.
* Lemon verbena and rosemary will not overwinter.
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The Herbal Tea Garden
Herbal tea refers to an infusion of plant
material that can include leaves, flowers,
stems, berries, and roots that are not
from Camellia sinensi, otherwise known
as tea. Herbal teas can be made very
simply by pouring boiling water over plant
parts and letting them steep for a few
minutes. Just like iced tea, herbal teas
can be turned into iced drinks that are
cool and refreshing – perfect for a hot
afternoon. They can be combined with
fruit juices, and club soda for a little
effervescence, sweetened with sugar,
honey or better yet . . . grow stevia as
part of your herb garden. Stevia is an
herb that contains sweetening extracts
that have 30-45 times the sweetness of
sugar.
Other common herbs for tea include:
Chamomile Pineapple Sage
Bergamot Mullein
Borage Mint
Lavender Marjoram
Lemon verbena Lemon Balm
See herbal tea recipes
Getting to the root of Gardening
Easy steps to improving your soil
Thinking Inside the Box
From Raised Beds to Greenhouse
The Herbal Garden
Growing and Using Fresh Herbs
Can U Dig it
Asparagus the greenest Investment
In the Cow Patch
Growing rhubarb is as easy as pie
The Seedy Side of Gardening
Selecting the best seeds
New gardeners are confused by it and long time gardeners value
it like gold. Besides water, soil is this planet’s greatest resource,
but it is created so slowly that it cannot be considered renewable.
There is no doubt about it, healthy plants are created from the
ground up. I suppose that reveals my opinion of those new
fangled hanging tomato plants. But before I go any further, I have
to make a confession.
In the past, I transformed a heavy, clay plot and a strip of near
gravel into productive gardens. I have experimented with and
used old-school techniques, raised beds, containers, cold frames,
green houses and the sides of buildings and fences. I have
attempted to grow veggies in partial shade and incessant rain.
These days, I grow half a dozen herbs and 20 kinds of vegetables,
sometimes comparing several varieties of each. I have been
challenged and greatly rewarded, but in 30 years of gardening, I
have never, ever had my soil tested.
I don’t know why. I was trained years ago as a horticulturalist,
have a basic understanding of soil science and know the
relevance of determining soil ph. It may have something to do with
my eternal optimism, or my stubborn defiance, I don’t know which.
Maybe, I just never wanted to be discouraged by poor scientific
results before getting started. The ph level indicates whether the
soil is acid, alkaline or neutral. Most plants prefer a neutral to
slightly acidic soil. It is common for much of the soil in BC to be a
little too acidic. High acidity will lock up nutrients and prevent
plants from utilizing them. What I do know is this, regardless of
what kind of soil you start with, all soil can be conditioned and the
fertility can be increased with simple and inexpensive natural
methods. It certainly doesn’t need to be perfect before you can
begin growing your own.
Great soil is a balance between sand, clay, organic matter and
nutrients. Each of these components contribute a different quality
that when mixed together are capable of creating a healthy
foundation and natural growing medium for your plants.
Vegetables prefer soil that will retain enough moisture to keep
their roots moist, but not so wet that they will be sitting in water.
Clay particles are fine so they have a tendency to retain moisture
and drain slowly. Sand particles, which are larger, create space to
hold oxygen (which is good) and permit drainage, but may drain
too quickly leaving roots dry. Squeeze a handful of damp soil in
your hand. Too much clay will produce a solid, dense clump and
form a ribbon when rubbed between your fingers. Too much sand
will crumble too easily. The idea is to eventually get to the loosely
packed, ball stage. But both can be greatly improved with the
addition of organic matter.
Organic matter is a natural fertilizer and soil conditioner that
results from animal waste or dead plant material. It provides
varying degrees of nutrients, increases the capacity of soil to
retain water, and supports the bacteria that helps release nutrients
for plant uptake. It generally comes in the form of manure,
compost and peat moss.
The diets of different animals produce different kinds of manure
each having varying percentages of nitrogen or other nutrients
than the others. I have heard that rabbit and bat guano are the
bee’s knees of the natural fertilizer world. But the important thing
to remember is that all manure should be well-rotted before being
used directly on the garden. Letting manure compost for 6-12
months will allow the intensity of the nitrogen to dissipate and
eliminate any unpleasant smell. As a general rule you should aim
to create soil that is one-third organic matter.
Composting is one of the best things you can do for your
environment and your garden. If I had enough of it I would
probably need very little of anything else. Remember that
everything you put into the compost pile will be contributing
different nutrients to your garden soil, so be creative (see the
compost list to get you started). Nutrients feed plants and keep
them healthy which is the best defence against “the dark arts”, I
mean disease. Fresh green material (grass clippings, weeds) or
any of the high nitrogen components will help get the pile cooking
to break it down. Remember to keep it moist, but not wet, turn it
occasionally to aerate and distribute microorganisms, and break
up material into smaller pieces to speed up results.
The three main nutrients needed by plants are nitrogen,
phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizer products always list the
percentage of these three nutrients in this order, by their symbols
N-P-K. In simplest terms higher levels of nitrogen are best for leaf
crops like lettuce, spinach, cabbage and herbs. Higher
phosphorus levels are best for fruiting crops like squash,
tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and eggplant. Higher levels of
potassium are needed for root crops like potatoes, beets, carrots,
turnips and for disease resistance. All three of these nutrients can
be obtained from natural sources. Manure, blood meal and fish
fertilizer are excellent sources of nitrogen. Bone meal can provide
phosphorus. And potassium, otherwise known as potash can be
obtained from wood ashes, so ask your bonfire or fireplace friends
to save you a bucket of ashes to sprinkle into your garden. Not
only will ashes add potassium, it reduces soil ph and frees up
calcium
So, there you have it. Dig up the dirt . . . add the amendments . . .
get rid of some of them rocks, and get planting!
Getting to root of gardening
Thinking Inside the Box
Whatever new endeavour that you decide to undertake, be it a
hobby, business, or physical activity there will always be start-up
costs. Starting a garden is no different. The growing medium is of
utmost importance. I don't think I need to explain why. If you are
lucky enough to have enriched soil, your costs will be minimal. But, if
you decide to build a box (raised bed) then be prepared to make an
investment in at least some of your supplies.
This was the case when we decided to expand our growing space,
onto a section of our lawn with a 12’ by 20’ raised bed that we will
eventually turn into a greenhouse to extend the growing season.
First, we marked the area to be cleared and rented a sod remover.
Twenty minutes, and $35.00 for a two hour rental was all it took to
remove what would have taken 10-15 hours using a shovel. The
savings on ibuprofen, ice pack therapy, and general unhappiness for
every one involved surely offsets the cost. The wooden frame made
from 2x10 untreated lumber was close to $50. I also chose to drape
the inside of the wood with 6ml poly to prevent grass from creeping
in around the edge and to help the lumber stay dryer. Some folks
say yes to this step and some say nay. It’s up to you.
Next, determine the amount of soil that you will need to fill the box.
Length in inches, times width in inches, x height in inches divided by
46,656 will equal the number of yards that you will need. We
ordered 12 yards of prepared soil at $30 per yard, which set us back
nearly $400 including tax. Next we purchased 4 bags of manure at
$7 per bag. All totalled the bill was about $500.
So, if a senior on your street offers you a plot of land that he or
she cannot manage any longer I urge you to don your gloves, step
up to the shovel and dig in. On the other hand, if you have a garden
plot that you no longer care to maintain, consider sharing the land
with someone who would appreciate putting it to good use. The
experience will reap the rewards of education, empowerment,
building community and most of all good clean food.
